Pattern drafting can feel like one of the most technical and intimidating areas of textiles — but it doesn't have to be. Once you understand the core principles, drafting your own blocks opens up a world of creative possibility: perfectly fitted garments, original designs, and the confidence to teach these skills to your students.
Whether you're a textiles teacher looking to upskill, or a maker wanting to move beyond commercial patterns, this guide will show you exactly where to start.
What Is Pattern Drafting?
Pattern drafting is the process of creating a pattern from scratch using body measurements, rather than copying or adapting an existing commercial pattern. The starting point is always a block (sometimes called a sloper) — a basic, flat template with no style details that fits the body closely.
From a block, you can create almost any garment style by adding design details, ease, and shaping.
What You'll Need to Get Started
Before you begin, gather these essentials:
- Accurate body measurements — bust, waist, hip, back length, sleeve length
- Pattern paper or dot-and-cross paper
- A long ruler and a curved ruler (French curve or pattern master)
- Pencil, rubber, and tracing wheel
- Scissors for paper
That's it. Pattern drafting doesn't require expensive equipment — just precision and patience.
Start With These Three Blocks
If you're new to pattern drafting, work through these blocks in order. Each one builds on the last.
1. The Basic Skirt Block
The skirt block is the simplest starting point. It uses just four measurements (waist, hip, back hip length, and skirt length) and introduces you to the core principles of dart placement and ease.
2. The Dartless Bodice Block
Once you're comfortable with the skirt block, move to a dartless bodice. This introduces you to working with the upper body and understanding how fabric behaves around the bust and shoulder.
3. The Darted Bodice Block
The darted bodice is the next step — adding shaping through darts to create a closer fit. This is the foundation for most fitted garment construction.
Common Beginner Mistakes (and How to Avoid Them)
Taking inaccurate measurements — Always measure twice, and measure over the undergarments you'd normally wear. Even a centimetre's difference can affect fit significantly.
Skipping the toile stage — A toile (a test garment made in cheap fabric) is not optional. It's how you check fit before cutting into your good fabric. Always make a toile.
Rushing the process — Pattern drafting rewards patience. Work slowly, check your lines are smooth, and don't skip steps.
From Block to Garment: The Next Steps
Once you have a well-fitting block, you can begin to manipulate it — rotating darts, adding flare, creating style lines. This is where pattern drafting becomes genuinely creative, and where the real fun begins.
The progression looks like this:
Draft block → Make toile → Fit and adjust → Manipulate for style → Cut in final fabric
Take It Further With Our Pattern Drafting Courses
Our pattern drafting courses are designed to take you from complete beginner to confident block-maker, with clear video instruction and downloadable resources at every stage.
- Pattern Drafting: Simple Basic Blocks — Skirt, Dartless Bodice, Sleeve & Dartless Dress — the ideal starting point
- Pattern Drafting: Simple Basic Skirt Block — focused deep-dive on the skirt block
- Pattern Drafting: Darted Bodice & Sleeve Blocks — next steps once you've mastered the basics
- Pattern Drafting: Making and Fitting Toiles — Skirt Block — essential toile skills
Browse all pattern drafting courses →